Great Coat Sew Along - Burda 7855 "Complete"

I am so pleased - I finally finished my coat.

...........................................................Looking at Bradley!

The coat went together quite nicely with no complications.

The style changes I made were minor: I made bound buttonholes and made single welt pockets.

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I used a decorative stitch on the lining hem and then sewed the lining to the coat by hand. (at the hems only!)

.....bound buttonholes and my buttons from The Button Drawer.

......single welt pockets

.........back vent detail. I didn't really notice the instructions for sewing the lining to the back vent - until I was actually sewing the lining to it. The pattern instructions for the vent would have you cover the vent opening, as illustrated in the picture. I didn't care for this, so I ended up modifying the flap lining. I clipped into the lining so I could then stitch the lining around the opening. I've done this before and so I'm pretty sure that the look I ended up with for this vent is not how it should end up looking like - however it's the best way I could think of to finish it, so the vent flap could freely open without being attached to the lining. It's also a shorter vent since I shortened the coat by 3 1/2 ".

I'm very very happy with this coat and I love the fit.

I'm so pleased how it turned out and even more pleased with the fantastic information I gained from - Paco's and Tany's tutorial - Thank you so very much to you both for sharing your time and valuable information!

Marji - Taking this project on was a huge undertaking and you did a fantastic job. Thank you.

It was a pleasure having so many people from all over the world come together for such a project. It was fun and I enjoyed seeing everyone's jackets come together.

More posts here!

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Single Welt Pocket -Burda 7855

Burda 7855 Single Welt Pocket Originally uploaded by Ann's Fashion Studio

I did actually sew today so I wanted to post "something" about sewing. . Burda 7855 jacket has two choices of pockets, In Seam or Front Flap. I didn't want either one. I wanted a Single Welt Pocket.

I found the pocket placement was too low for me, so I raised it.

I made this pocket, using the instructions from the book - "Tailoring- The Classic Guide to Sewing the Perfect Jacket" .

I put the sleeve to my muslin in the pocket to see if it might make the welt stand out a little but the welt blends in really well, there really is one there. Next one I make I could use a contrasting fabric.

View of the lining inside pocket.

The Instructions were clear and easy to follow. I am pleased with the results.

(Along with pg 94 you also have to use some steps on pgs 91, 92, 93. Click on "All Sizes" to be able to read instructions.)

Pad - Stitching

*Please note *All pictures in this post, (except for one - the one with the green mat)- are captured from Roberta Carr's "Couture Techniques for Fine Sewing" DVD.

I've been working on pad stitching the fronts of my Burda 7855 jacket.

We received alot of great information from Paco on Tailoring techniques. I alternated between Paco's method and Roberta Carr's grid method, from her "Couture Techniques for Fine Sewing" DVD.

In this picture, Roberta Carr shows how the grid should look. Smaller around the lapel and gets bigger in the body. It took me quite some time to draw my grid on my jacket interfacing, but once it was done, the stitching went quite quickly. (I've only completed one side of the jacket)....In the picture below Roberta is postitioning the interfacing on the jacket, starting at the bottom....

Pictures captured from the "Couture Techniques for Fine Sewing" DVD.

I also followed her directions for the pad stitching. Start stitching from the bottom of the jacket, going from the center of the squares to the corner, and work your way up the jacket. Then come back down the squares, working from the corner to the center. You end up with perfect "V's". I actually like this method. Once the grid is done the stitching is actually very effortless.

This picture above shows Roberta going from the center to the corner.....

This one from corner to center......forming a perfect "V"

On my jacket (below picture) the roll line has been stabilized with stay tape (black) and I've sewn the stay tape down the front ,the other edges have been sewn using a catch stitch, as per Paco's method. Roberta, below, instructs to have the tape (light green tape) stop 2" above the center front line....

to reduce bulk when folded......

Roberta instructs to sew the tape, using a catch stitch, so the tape

"floats" between the stitches,below picture.

The overall feel of my jacket front feels great. The lapel rolls nicely and has a nice shape. I'm very happy with the results.

I truly enjoyed this hand stitching session. Now I have to do the other side.

I was sad to read that Roberta Carr passed away recently.. ..What a great loss.

Great Coat Sew Along - Muslin/Fitting

I finished the muslin for Burda 7855 View B and I am very happy with the fit, however you would never think that from these pictures. I used a cotton for the muslin that is absolutely horrible as far as wrinkles, and the camera shows them "all". (The sleeves are the worst and believe me I ironed this fabric several times for the pictures but it really was no use!) After taking a gazillion pictures I am going with these or I'd never get any posted.

The only alteration I will do is on the sleeves. The fit is fine, there is no tightness but as you can see one sleeve does not look so good. The sleeve cap has too much fabric, see red circle/picture taken outside. I removed some of the excess on the right sleeve as I pinned the sleeve to the arm, and then sewed it. The sleeve looks much better after having done this. I believe Tany had a similar issue as well. So for the sleeve paper pattern I will use Tany's method , she posted a great tutorial explaining this alteration in detail! Thank you Tany! ( Here it is on Tany's blog for those not participating in the Coat Sew Along).

There is what appears to be a lots of wrinkles on the back, and the sleeves, but trust me when I say it's the fabric! I am pleased with how the jacket fits and how it feels when I'm wearing it. I may shorten it somewhat but I'm still pondering this change :)

"Almost" a Completed Great Coat Muslin

I did get most of my muslin for the coat sew along done this week end.

I decided I'd make Burda 7855 View B instead of Butterick 5145, and so far I am really liking it.

Pictures from Burda Fashion

All I had to do tonight was sew the sleeves on... but first, before I start I thought, "I'll just check my emails and a couple of blogs, just a quick look".

Thanks to Belinda at Sew4Fun I'm hooked on Project Runway Australia. Every week she posts the next episode.

Thank You Belinda :)

So of course when I saw it on her blog tonight, I just couldn't help myself, I had to watch Episode (7) "tonight" - instead of finishing my muslin - but that's OK. I really enjoy the show and it's a great way to sit back and unwind after a busy work day :)

So I will post pictures of my muslin as sooooon as I sew those sleeves on :)

Have a great sewing day!