Tuesday 30 September 2008

Pad - Stitching

*Please note *All pictures in this post, (except for one - the one with the green mat)- are captured from Roberta Carr's "Couture Techniques for Fine Sewing" DVD.

I've been working on pad stitching the fronts of my Burda 7855 jacket.

We received alot of great information from Paco on Tailoring techniques. I alternated between Paco's method and Roberta Carr's grid method, from her "Couture Techniques for Fine Sewing" DVD.

In this picture, Roberta Carr shows how the grid should look. Smaller around the lapel and gets bigger in the body. It took me quite some time to draw my grid on my jacket interfacing, but once it was done, the stitching went quite quickly. (I've only completed one side of the jacket)....In the picture below Roberta is postitioning the interfacing on the jacket, starting at the bottom....

Pictures captured from the "Couture Techniques for Fine Sewing" DVD.

I also followed her directions for the pad stitching. Start stitching from the bottom of the jacket, going from the center of the squares to the corner, and work your way up the jacket. Then come back down the squares, working from the corner to the center. You end up with perfect "V's". I actually like this method. Once the grid is done the stitching is actually very effortless.

This picture above shows Roberta going from the center to the corner.....

This one from corner to center......forming a perfect "V"

On my jacket (below picture) the roll line has been stabilized with stay tape (black) and I've sewn the stay tape down the front ,the other edges have been sewn using a catch stitch, as per Paco's method. Roberta, below, instructs to have the tape (light green tape) stop 2" above the center front line....
to reduce bulk when folded......

Roberta instructs to sew the tape, using a catch stitch, so the tape

"floats" between the stitches,below picture.

The overall feel of my jacket front feels great. The lapel rolls nicely and has a nice shape. I'm very happy with the results.

I truly enjoyed this hand stitching session. Now I have to do the other side.

I was sad to read that Roberta Carr passed away recently.. ..What a great loss.