Pad - Stitching

*Please note *All pictures in this post, (except for one - the one with the green mat)- are captured from Roberta Carr's "Couture Techniques for Fine Sewing" DVD.

I've been working on pad stitching the fronts of my Burda 7855 jacket.

We received alot of great information from Paco on Tailoring techniques. I alternated between Paco's method and Roberta Carr's grid method, from her "Couture Techniques for Fine Sewing" DVD.

In this picture, Roberta Carr shows how the grid should look. Smaller around the lapel and gets bigger in the body. It took me quite some time to draw my grid on my jacket interfacing, but once it was done, the stitching went quite quickly. (I've only completed one side of the jacket)....In the picture below Roberta is postitioning the interfacing on the jacket, starting at the bottom....

Pictures captured from the "Couture Techniques for Fine Sewing" DVD.

I also followed her directions for the pad stitching. Start stitching from the bottom of the jacket, going from the center of the squares to the corner, and work your way up the jacket. Then come back down the squares, working from the corner to the center. You end up with perfect "V's". I actually like this method. Once the grid is done the stitching is actually very effortless.

This picture above shows Roberta going from the center to the corner.....

This one from corner to center......forming a perfect "V"

On my jacket (below picture) the roll line has been stabilized with stay tape (black) and I've sewn the stay tape down the front ,the other edges have been sewn using a catch stitch, as per Paco's method. Roberta, below, instructs to have the tape (light green tape) stop 2" above the center front line....

to reduce bulk when folded......

Roberta instructs to sew the tape, using a catch stitch, so the tape

"floats" between the stitches,below picture.

The overall feel of my jacket front feels great. The lapel rolls nicely and has a nice shape. I'm very happy with the results.

I truly enjoyed this hand stitching session. Now I have to do the other side.

I was sad to read that Roberta Carr passed away recently.. ..What a great loss.

Jalie * Socks * Chaussettes *

Making Socks / Chaussettes, looks very interesting. Check out this Jalie Video :)

Jalie Pattern #2448 Women's Thermal Underwear

They look like they would be fun and easy to make :)

How nice is this?

In my last post I linked to a video on youtube, the one Susan had posted on the Great Coat Sew along, "Stitching Techniques for the Tailored Jacket" made by OTIS College.

While checking this one out I found others and wanted to post them to share with you all, and have them as references for later, if ever needed. Well today I received a really nice email. The OTIS College, Dean of Admissions, Mr Marc Meredith, e-mailed me to thank me for posting about OTIS college on my blog. I thought that was really quite nice :)

He has a blog called The "O" Observed and he mentioned my post on his blog - Thank you Mr Marc D. Meredith.

For those fortunate to be out in the Los Angeles area I'm sure a walk around campus would be a great inspiration. If any one ever does visit please let us know!

Otis College of Art and Design

9045 Lincoln BLVD

Los Angeles, CA 90045

Phone: 800-527-OTIS (6847) or 310-665-6800 http://www.otis.edu/

Marc D. Meredith

Dean of Admissions

Phone: 310-665-6820 Fax: 310-665-6811

Great reference for Sewing Techniques

Susan from fabricluver posted a link to a very interesting Sewing Techniques reference video on The great coat sew along blog - Thank you so much Susan :) I really enjoyed it. When I first saw it - it reminded me of a great post I read on Tany's blog about thread tracing Part 1, Part 2, Part 3. (Thank you Tany. I hope you don't mind that yet again I link to your blog :) and of course Paco's wonderful Jacket Tailoring Methods tutorial. (Tany's translation).

I wanted to post these on my blog for those not participating in the coat sew along, and also for my future reference. The "Stitching techniques for the Tailored Jacket" are very well done in this video - made by OTIS college on youtube. (It's amazing what you can find there!)

Other videos : "OTIS Fashion Design Department" , Basic Hand Stitching, Invisible Zipper, Lap Zipper, Railroad Zipper.

I think if I was younger and starting out OTIS College might be a great place to attend.

• Non Sewing: My 16 yr old son was working on a school assigment "all" week end - taking care of a "baby". (A doll that is just like a baby!) For those not familiar with these dolls, the baby acts and sounds just like a real one. It is computerized and programmed to giggle, burp, cry when it is hungry,wet,fussy......... his responses are monitored by the bracelet he has to wear,which he cannot remove. My little Bradley was quite taken by this baby! It was a long week end and long nights for him. (and us-not use to hearing a baby's cry in the house anymore - especially late at night :)

All in all, he handled this assignment really well. We were truly very impressed!

However not a sight I want to see for quite some time :)

Images - Moments in Time

*Sept 13th * Happy 23rd Birthday Serena *

Images - Moments in Time

* My Blog Award *

I was given a blog award (Anne called it a prize) by Anne from "Le Mani D'oro"

Thank you so very much Anne. I was really pleased.

The rules for this award - prize are as follows:

1. Select 6 bloggers to whom you would like to give this award- prize (definetly not easy to choose - only 6)

2. Put the award - prize on your blog and indicate who gave it to you by identifying her/his blog;

3. Paste these rules on your blog;

4. Write 6 of your most important values and 6 negative points you condemn,

5. Inform the 6 recipients by leaving a comment on their blog.

Values that are important:

1. Commitment (Family,friends,work...)
2. Loyalty
3. Integrity
4. Respect
5. Goodness
6. Fairness

Some things I condemn:

1. Drinking & Driving
2. Puppy Mills
3. Racism
4. Violence
5. Hypocrisy
6. Selfishness

My daily visits include so many other wonderful blogs, so it was very difficult to limit my choice to 6 blogs.

1. Tany - Tricot & Couture (Aveiro Portugal)
2. Paco -Paco Peralta (Barcelona Spain)
3. Lucia - My Cafe Couture (Paris France)
4. Dawn - Two on Two Off (Alaska US)
5. Summerset - Pins and Needles (Northfield NH, US)
6. Belinda - Sew-4-Fun (Australia)

This is such a great way to recognize the creativity of such talented people.

As Anne said " This ends up as an endless chain of appreciation".

If you haven't been to these wonderful blogs take a minute - or two :) and enjoy them!

Happy Sewing!

* Looking for Argyle fabric *

I went to my local fabric store today - Fabricville - and what nice fabrics they have out for fall! Lots of lovely choices! I was looking specifically for argyle fabric - I want to make a cardigan/cami or just a top fron one of the Jalie patterns.They had some argyle fabric but unfortunately not what I wanted. Sheila from Sheilaz crochetz,threadz & knitz posted a really nice picture of some blue/lt. blue argyle she bought and that fabric is what I'm so looking for. If I can't find similar I may just go back and get what they did have :)

While I was at Fabricville I spoke to Diana -and she is now also a blogger- Sew Passionista by Diana - Congratulations Diana, your blog looks wonderful :)

Diana made a Sandra Betzina jacket - Vogue 1060. She has it up on display at the store....and she did a wonderful job, it looks great! It is a really nice style. The fabric she chose - a black quilted stretchy faux leather - works really well with this pattern! I liked it so much I too had to buy the pattern.

I Love the sound track to "The Cider House Rules"

A little off a sewing topic - but I really liked this movie, I know it's an older one, but I can listen to Michael Caine's voice for hours :)

Trailer: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WxJr09u10co

Soundtrack :

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tt8WMXz1WeE&feature=related

From You Tube

* ------------------------------------------------------------------------------*

Images - Moments in Time : Today I started my red and green chow chow with the tomatoes Bill grew. (I'm originally from Quebec City , the majority of my family still lives there, and I'm used to my Mom's recipe, which is very close to the one I've linked to!) We picked all the plants except the little cherry tomatoes. Tonight they soak and tomorrow I cook them up! I'm also making home made bread :) for Duncan!

Upside down Cherry Tomato Plant (Bill's Mom gave us a couple of these planters with all these great tomato plants. This is the first time we tried growing these upside down plants. They are great! I've linked to a site I found that explains this method quite nicely). We were very successful growing them and will do so again next year!

Great Coat Sew Along - Muslin/Fitting

I finished the muslin for Burda 7855 View B and I am very happy with the fit, however you would never think that from these pictures. I used a cotton for the muslin that is absolutely horrible as far as wrinkles, and the camera shows them "all". (The sleeves are the worst and believe me I ironed this fabric several times for the pictures but it really was no use!) After taking a gazillion pictures I am going with these or I'd never get any posted.

The only alteration I will do is on the sleeves. The fit is fine, there is no tightness but as you can see one sleeve does not look so good. The sleeve cap has too much fabric, see red circle/picture taken outside. I removed some of the excess on the right sleeve as I pinned the sleeve to the arm, and then sewed it. The sleeve looks much better after having done this. I believe Tany had a similar issue as well. So for the sleeve paper pattern I will use Tany's method , she posted a great tutorial explaining this alteration in detail! Thank you Tany! ( Here it is on Tany's blog for those not participating in the Coat Sew Along).

There is what appears to be a lots of wrinkles on the back, and the sleeves, but trust me when I say it's the fabric! I am pleased with how the jacket fits and how it feels when I'm wearing it. I may shorten it somewhat but I'm still pondering this change :)

"Almost" a Completed Great Coat Muslin

I did get most of my muslin for the coat sew along done this week end.

I decided I'd make Burda 7855 View B instead of Butterick 5145, and so far I am really liking it.

Pictures from Burda Fashion

All I had to do tonight was sew the sleeves on... but first, before I start I thought, "I'll just check my emails and a couple of blogs, just a quick look".

Thanks to Belinda at Sew4Fun I'm hooked on Project Runway Australia. Every week she posts the next episode.

Thank You Belinda :)

So of course when I saw it on her blog tonight, I just couldn't help myself, I had to watch Episode (7) "tonight" - instead of finishing my muslin - but that's OK. I really enjoy the show and it's a great way to sit back and unwind after a busy work day :)

So I will post pictures of my muslin as sooooon as I sew those sleeves on :)

Have a great sewing day!

Prints - Prints - and more Prints

These are fabrics I purchased at Tissus Claudiany in Quebec.

I am so pleased with the quality of these fabrics. I'm thinking they will be made up with Jalie patterns. I bought three more of their newest top patterns, 2793, 2804, 2806 and 2216 - an exercise outfit pattern. I'm always looking for different patterns for work out outfits!

Love this pink and black...nice border detail!

This purple and black is also one of my favorites. I love the colour!

I may make a summer dress with this one,the pattern is bold and big!

Bradley

Bradley enjoying a little time out in the rain!

Images - Moment in Time

Les Tissus D.R.B ( St-Jean-Chrysostome, Quebec)

I wanted to also post information on this store. I was impressed with the service and fabrics.

Have you bought anything from this store? If yes were the prices competitive? I bought some wonderful denim fabric and some knits for pj's/house coat. It was their end season sale so all fabrics were $4.00/m and $5.00/m.

Were the sales people polite and friendly? The owner Danie, was extremely polite and friendly. She took the time to explain all about her unique * fabric sample offer - mentioned below.

How would you rate the quality of the item this store sells? The fabric is of the highest quality. One of the knit fabric was totally interfaced!

How was your shopping experience. Is there anything you did not like about this store? My shopping expererience was wonderful. Danie was very helpful and generous with her cuts.

Would you shop here again? Yes I would. Anyone sewing for little ones would find this shop a great place. Even though I don't normally sew for children I would return to this shop, because I did find some "very" nice fabric.

Would you recommend this store to others? Yes.

Any other comments you would like to add? This shop sells fabrics that are for children, however I did find that some of their fabrics like the ones I purchased- the denim - (will make a wonderful jacket) and the so soft and comfy knit fabric (for pj's/house coat ) will be great for either an adult or a child. She also sells childrens's clothes and crib bedding.

She offers a very unique *fabric sample service. You can sign up to receive a sample box, of "all" her fabrics in the store. The box is mailed out to you and you have 7 days to view the fabrics/notions and then you send it back, along with your order if you choose to buy something. You can also fax your order in or email it to her. (On her website click on "les boites" to see what you would receive.

This sample box is sent out twice a year. I think this is such a great way of "touching" the fabric before you buy it. Danie says her customers love it. I may give it a try too :)

Tissus Claudiany ( St-Jean-Chrysostome,Quebec)

I was away for a few days visiting my family in Quebec City.

While I was there I made a point of shopping at "Tissus Claudiany" and I also found another fabric store on the same street called "Les Tissus D.R.B.

Deepika reviewed Tissus Claudiany and I have to agree it is a wonderful shop. It is a small shop with lots of great fabrics. Especially knits - lots of prints. I had a great time picking out fun prints. ...and there was allot to choose from......I can't seem to upload pictures tonight so I will add them later.

Have you bought anything from this store? If yes were the prices competitive? I bought 8 pieces of knit fabric. (I was thrilled to find some fabric like the one on the Jalie Pattern 2794 top,the black/white circles.)The prices were very competitive - The fabric I purchased was from $10.98 to $12.98 a meter.

Were the sales people polite and friendly? The sales person serving me was very nice. She was by herself while I was there and it was a busy day for her, but I received excellent service.

How would you rate the quality of the item this store sells? The fabric all appeared to be very good quality. The knit I purchased definetly is a higher end product.

How was your shopping experience. Is there anything you did not like about this store? I liked everything about my shopping experience.

Would you shop here again? Yes I would. I think this little shop will be a regular stop whenever I'm in Quebec City.

Would you recommend this store to others? Absolutely.

Any other comments you would like to add? They have Jalie pattern tops made up - that they also sell. This is a great way of seeing these tops done up before you buy the pattern...and the fabric. I didn't see a large selection of Jalie patterns for sale, but then again I didn't ask if they had more. I was too focused on buying knit fabrics :) and knew I was going to order my Jalie patterns online when I returned home.

I am still around :)

Today was a wonderful day. Life is just so busy lately we barely have time to relax. So we decided that today was a do - nothing - day :)

We spent the day just driving around and stopping in wherever! One of my stops - my local fabric store. When my husband heard there was a garment steamer I had wanted - in he went with me and bought it...and...he chose some fabric :o

Some nice patchwork cotton fabric! He thought the fabric would be great for pj's - for him and our son. And I love this fabric! (I'll post a picture later).

I also had the greatest chat with one of the women that works there * Hi Diana * She commented that she had visited my blog :) and that she remembered selling me the fabric for my jacket (Vogue 8043). Diana is also in the process of making her own blog. (Diana make sure you let me know when you are up and posting :) It was great talking to you). We had a great chat about one of our favorite sites - Stitchers Guild - and the great people that post there. It was just so nice to actually "talk" to some one that also visits sites that I just love to visit - like Paco and Tany and so many more.......

To finish off a perfect day, I am going to start (I am so far behind) working on my coat muslin for the Great Coat Sew Along.

Jacket - Vogue 8043 Details

• I embroidered my own label for this Jacket. I included the pattern number. To sew the chain to the hem I used fishing line. It worked really well.

Bound Buttonholes.

• I lightened the picture so you can see the welts on the bound buttonhole. I used black wool crepe for the welts.

Sandra Betzina - Today's Fit - Jacket - Vogue 8043

I absolutely love this jacket. It fits perfect. (I pretty much always make bound buttons on jackets. This time I took pictures when making them and will post as a different entry.)

Pattern Description: Semi-fitted,fully interfaced,lined jacket has princess seams, shoulder pads, welt pockets,front button closure and long two piece sleeves.

Pattern Sizing: A/32- B/34-C/36. I initially did my muslin for size C/36, but it was too big. I made the B/34.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? It looked exactly like the picture on the pattern.

Were the instructions easy to follow? It is a very straight forward, well written and laid out pattern. Sandra Betzina gives allot of tips on fitting and placement for plaids. Her instructions are very easy to follow. (There are allot of instructions on different fitting issues, it's a matter of picking what pertains to you)

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love the style! I like everything about the pattern. The fit, the instructions, the fact that I didn't make "any" fit alterations and that all went together very easy.

Fabric Used: I used a black and white boucle. Black Bemberg Lining. I also interfaced the whole jacket.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I made no fitting alterations to this pattern. Design changes I made: I love bound buttonholes so that's what I made instead of the normal machine stitched button holes. I also added cording around the collar. I did not totally "bag" the lining. I sewed it by machine but didn't sew the bottom as instructed. I finished the lining hem with a decorative stitch and then sewed it by hand to the jacket hem.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes I will sew this again. But I think next time it will be with a plain fabric -no matching lines :) Cutting the pieces single layer, making sure everything matches, pockets/body/sleeves- takes much longer. Also more care has to be taken when sewing pieces together. I don't mind doing all this, I do truly like the end result, it was worth all the time and effort. (There maybe the odd line that doesn't totally match up :) but overall I am pleased.) I would highly recommend this pattern.




















Conclusion:I really like the fit and look of this jacket. I brought this jacket to work to show my friend and she, and all my co-workers, loved the jacket. I received allot of compliments. One of the guys from another office wants me to make one for his wife - as a Christmas gift. I was pretty pleased with the response :)



I will take pictures of the inside of the jacket and add them to this post tomorrow.


Top Pocket Detail

Do you have a Favorite Yves Saint Laurent Outfit?

This is my very favorite...Mondrian Cocktail Dress (1965)

Models present dresses inspired by painter Piet Mondrian during Yves Saint Laurent's farewell show at the Georges Pompidou Center in Paris in 2002 . (Pictures are from Fashion Today.)

Legendary designer Yves Saint Laurent dies at 71

Here are a couple of great Vintage patterns from this talented Fashion Designer:

Vogue Paris Original 1569; 1960s; Yves Saint Laurent - Suit and Blouse.

Pictures from: http://vintagepatterns.wikia.com/wiki/Category:Yves_Saint_Laurent

Here's more information:

http://www.canadaeast.com/search/article/312562

http://www.thestarpress.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20080601/NEWS06/80601045

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yves_Saint-Laurent_%28designer%29

Ann's Coat- The Great Coat Sew-Along

I kept reading everyone's post on the Coat Sew Along site and was getting very nervous that I still had not found my fabric. Everyone has such nice fabrics for their coats. So today I was going to find something.....and I did.

I was being very stubborn and wanted to buy my fabric here instead of ordering on line. Only because I wanted to feel the fabric before I bought it. So the choice was limited because where I live the winter fabrics are not out, all but one little table of about 10- light to medium weight wools -that was it.

Not exactly the wools I was looking for. So I just changed my plan from a heavy winter coat to a lighter fall- to mild winter coat. It was very hard to photogragh this fabric.

This fabric is somewhat medium weight. The clour is a dark charcoal with specs of different colours running thru it. The red is a bright red, not pink as it appears in the picture. I was actually going to be bold,(for me) and get the matching red Kasha lining, but at the last minute went for the grey tone, which matches perfectly with the grey in the fabric.

This colour is more accurate. I love the colours, the feel and the weight of this fabric. It will make a very comfortable coat.

I am still very undecided on the pattern. It will be either Butterick 5145 (View B), McCall's 5247 (ViewC) or Neue Mode 23215 (view B). I bought enough fabric for whichever one. I'm leaning towards B5145? I would change the pockets to welt pockets with a flap.

I'm also still looking thru the few BWOF magazines I have just in case something catches my attention. All in all a great day!

**Decided on Butterick 5145.