Friday, January 11, 2008

Teal Silk Doupioni Top - Vogue 8391

I made View A because I just love the neckline style.
The colour is close but I just cannot get it right with my camera.It looks more vibrant like this picture.
My inspiration for this top was Kathryn's top.
View A - is sleevless and I wanted 3/4 length sleeves - View C.
So I made the appropriate changes to the front/back pattern pieces to accomodate the sleeves.
As previously reported on Stitchers Guild I knew there was going to be issues with the fit of the armhole. I made my muslin with no alterations, other than the changes for the sleeves, as I wanted to see exactly how it would fit. Sure enough , it was quite tight. However the rest of the top fit just fine.
This is a very fitted top and the armhole is high.This style has practically no "ease" at the armhole, and it was definetly pulling -enough to say it was uncomfortable. I made adjustments on my muslin, till the fit was right. It took allot of fiddling -- it's still a fitted top, but it doesn't feel snug under the arms anymore.
I then transferred these adjustments to my pattern pieces.
The adjustments were:
4 added to the armhole on the front and back pattern pieces
4lowered the armhole depth and
4 adjusted the sleeve cap.
I made another muslin, just to be sure and the fit felt perfect.
I was really happy that my adjustments ended up being quite minor and not too difficult. The fabric is a very vibrant teal colour and I could not find serger thread to match "perfectly",
so I finished the seams by folding each seam allowance toward the seam, refolding it to one side and machine blanket stitching.
I embroidered a design on the front - this fabric embroiders really well.
I only lined the front pieces that I embroidered. I pondered doing it this way for quite some time. The fabric is fairly light but it feels nice as is. I knew I'd wear it with a camisole too, so I really didn't want to line the whole top.
To make the lining I simply made a lining pattern from the origianl front pattern piece, removing the facing and adding a 5/8" seam allowance. I used silk charmeuse for the lining.
When I attached the facing/lining I also sewed in clear elastic in the front neckline.
The only thing that holds this top closed are the ties, and that is really not enough to feel secure. I added snap fasteners along the front panel. I don't know how you could wear this top without doing this :)

I down sized the ties - length and width - and I tie them in the back.

The overall construction of this top was very easy. The silk doupioni was great to work with.

I believe I can call this a TNT pattern :)

Thursday, January 10, 2008

All Work....and no Play

I'm back to work and just too tired to sew much....But I have managed to do some work on a top...Vogue 8391. I hope to have it done this week end. Will post when complete.