Tuesday, 30 September 2008

Pad - Stitching

*Please note *All pictures in this post, (except for one - the one with the green mat)- are captured from Roberta Carr's "Couture Techniques for Fine Sewing" DVD.

I've been working on pad stitching the fronts of my Burda 7855 jacket.

We received alot of great information from Paco on Tailoring techniques. I alternated between Paco's method and Roberta Carr's grid method, from her "Couture Techniques for Fine Sewing" DVD.

In this picture, Roberta Carr shows how the grid should look. Smaller around the lapel and gets bigger in the body. It took me quite some time to draw my grid on my jacket interfacing, but once it was done, the stitching went quite quickly. (I've only completed one side of the jacket)....In the picture below Roberta is postitioning the interfacing on the jacket, starting at the bottom....

Pictures captured from the "Couture Techniques for Fine Sewing" DVD.

I also followed her directions for the pad stitching. Start stitching from the bottom of the jacket, going from the center of the squares to the corner, and work your way up the jacket. Then come back down the squares, working from the corner to the center. You end up with perfect "V's". I actually like this method. Once the grid is done the stitching is actually very effortless.

This picture above shows Roberta going from the center to the corner.....

This one from corner to center......forming a perfect "V"

On my jacket (below picture) the roll line has been stabilized with stay tape (black) and I've sewn the stay tape down the front ,the other edges have been sewn using a catch stitch, as per Paco's method. Roberta, below, instructs to have the tape (light green tape) stop 2" above the center front line....
to reduce bulk when folded......

Roberta instructs to sew the tape, using a catch stitch, so the tape

"floats" between the stitches,below picture.

The overall feel of my jacket front feels great. The lapel rolls nicely and has a nice shape. I'm very happy with the results.

I truly enjoyed this hand stitching session. Now I have to do the other side.

I was sad to read that Roberta Carr passed away recently.. ..What a great loss.

17 comments:

Claire S. said...

Ann, I'm glad to see your weekend plans were successful - that looks great ! It also looks like it took ages to do. I didn't get my fabric cut out after all but I did get a bit closer, had to spend some quality family time and then some time squaring up my wool (it was kicking & screaming the whole time LOL)

This post will be really helpful, I know I've read in some of the posts that you can draw the lines for padstitching right on the interfacing, but your picture shows it really clearly.

paco peralta said...

Ann .- you always offers very good information. thanks. I am glad we have a good process in his coat. Since then, the craftsmanship is unparalleled, really. I attach the link of a tailor, there are also good pictures. Best wishes, Paco

http://www.desmerrionbespoketailor.com/image_library/gallery/

paco peralta said...

Ann .- I forgot to ask you .- you put a fuse or some underlining, in addition to the interlining of a tailor? ... thanks. greetings again. Paco

Sew Passionista said...

Ann, great info as usual. It makes me want to try pad-stitching

Ann's Fashion Studio said...

Claire, it did take some time for the grid but really I think overall it made the stitching part go faster. I really did enjoy it.Hope you find time to cut your fabric, everything just seems to fall into place as soon as you do this:)
Paco, I did follow your instruction and underlined the coat fabric with a knit fusible interfacing. It worked really well. I was so focused on using the grid method I did not realize till after I pad-stitched the body that I forgot to make the diagonal cut at the chest. In Roberta Carr's method she pad stitched the whole front,all the way to the bottom of the jacket....it is working well with this fabric, but I think the next time I will use your method, as this was very time consuming. Do you ever pad stitch the whole jacket front?
Diana, I don't normally pad stitch often, and probably should, but this time it was painless. Maybe because there was so much great information leading up to it :)

Tany said...

This is great info Ann! I will bookmark this entry for reference!

Hugs from Portugal,

Tany

paco peralta said...

Hello again Ann .- If the fuse is working very well. even recommended in many Vogue patterns. Once I made the point across the front of the jacket, for example, I did in my blue jacket embroidered with stones, but used a stitch similar to that of the flap but longer and more spaced out. Soil normally use the method of tailoring, as showed in the tutorial: flaps and neck, and then sew the interlining where possible (seams, pockets, chest, etc.).. I am sure that your coat will be "GENIAL" (as we say here). hugs, Paco

Paola said...

Thanks for information, I read your entry and Paco Peralta´s entry. I´m very happy.

Cafe Couture said...

Ann, great info and pictures, but I 'm still having trouble with this, I thinks I need to see this live to be able to use this technique and understand the real purpose of every stitch. Thank you for your kind messages on my blog too:) Well, I wish I had a house where I could have a little companion, like your Bradley, my daughter would enjoy that too.

Ann's Fashion Studio said...

Thank you Tany, Paco,Paola & Cafe Couture :)
Paco, The way I did it for this one is great but for sure next one will be done like your method :)
Tany, I so hope you're finding time to sew. Mine is very limited also at the moment:{
Cafe Couture, I will see what I can do about you "seeing" it.

caseykoester said...

Hi,
I found your blog through Google and it has helped me so much! I used the grid method on my pad stitched collar. I wrote about it on my blog and linked to your post: http://caseykoester.wordpress.com/2009/01/18/vogue-2885-jacket-part-1/

Thank you so much for the great instructions!

Ann's Fashion Studio said...

I'm very happy this information was useful to you.. I like Roberta Carr's DVD, it has great information. I've checked out your blog and you did a great job on your collar. Thank you for linking back to my blog :)

Anonymous said...

Hi Ann,

I'm grateful for your post and have started my padstitching, but it's turned out dead flat. No curl.... I spent a half day researching before I started, so am at a loss.

I have my grid as per the diagram, 1 cm squares, with smaller at the triangle of the lapel. Am using normal weighted machine thread (but silk), for my stitches.

They run from bottom to top, then back down again, on each row. They're not tight and pick up a small amount of the fabric. I have the lapel curled over my finger while I sew.

My project looks 'exactly' as per the pictures on your site, except for the curl.... :-(.

My fabric is a top quality woollen blend with horse hair interfacing. Can you offer suggestions? Thank you in advance.

Deb

Ann's Fashion Studio said...

Hi Deb, thank you for commenting. It does sound like you have done all the right steps. The only thing I can think of is that maybe the stitches are too far apart, but if you used the grid it may not be this. When you were stitching the rows, when you got to the end of a row did you roll the lapel over your again,for the next row, and then continue to stitch. So for each row you should reposition the cloth over your hand before stitching again so when you are done the piece will maintain the shape you created as you were stitching. I hope this explanation helps. If you can post a picture, seeing it may also help to see what may have happened.

Anonymous said...

Hi Ann,

Thanks for the quick response and apologies for my late one. I only stop by on weekends.

I faithfully wrapped the fabric about my hand the entire time, and for every row. Until this morning, I had not ironed the project either, I only did this to get the creases out for appearances, and before photographing for you: Here's the link: http://cid-c44cd244a4e312fb.skydrive.live.com/browse.aspx/Sewing%20Disaster

On my 3rd attempt, and at the advice of a friend, I pulled it so tight, that I pulled the stitches apart from each other, in my attempt to get the curl on the triangular section, at the tip of the lapel. It only looks as though the stitches are further apart than they actually are. I stagged the rows, but you can see by the pucker that I've worked it extremely tight. This didn't work either.....

My pattern stated the triangular section needed to be done horizontally.

The horsehair (polyester) interfacing is slightly heavier than the light wool blend fabric. My friend suggested I needed a heavier/stiffer interfacing to get the curl? I'm going to try an organza insert, between fabric and interfacing of the other lapel, and see if this helps. 4th attempt....

Thanks in advance and any suggestions gratefully received. I want to try and learn this technique, but desperately need help. Until now there's nothing I couldn't do.....

Deb

Anonymous said...

Hi again Ann,

I have the most wonderful curl in my lapel! I inserted some organza to add bulk, AND curled the fabric around my my hand in the 'correct' direction, getting the desired result within the first row of stitching.

I felt stupid once I realised what I'd been doing, curling the fabric in the wrong direction, while holding accross the lapel instead of down.

Thanks so much for all your help and invaluable website.

Deb

Ann's Fashion Studio said...

I'm very happy for you that it all worked out. It's always such a great feeling of accomplishment. Will you post your finished garment, I'd loved to see it. Have a great day.