Re-Thinking Pattern Drafting

Patternmaking for Fashion Design. - Helen Joseph-Armstrong (4th Edition)

Designing Apparel Through the Flat Pattern - Ernestein Kopp, Vittorine Rolfo, Beatrice Zelin, Lee Gross (6th Edition)

Metric Pattern Cutting - Winifred Aldrich

Dress Pattern Designing- Natalie Bray (5th Edition)

Make Your Own Patterns - Rene Bergh

I've been thinking lately I'd like to re-visit Pattern Drafting. (Maybe because I'm having a drafting/cutting table made :) (Not Pattern Drafting using a software program.)

A couple of years ago I took a Pattern Drafting Course - Intro to Fashion, at my local college. It's part of a Fashion Design program. I haven't really touched pattern drafting I believe since I finished that course. I've done the odd pattern alteration,but not drafting. I learned so much from this course. Pattern drafting can be lots of fun, and as I found out it was not as hard as I first imagined. Mind you I can say that "now" after someone "showed" me how to do it. ( I made a doll size sample of a skirt pattern I drafted for myself). I found it so much better to learn hands on, than to try and figure it out from a book. Now when I use these books I find it easier to follow. The books posted above were very helpful during this cousre. My favorites were "Patternmaking for Fashion Design" and "Designing Apparel through the Flat Pattern". The "Metric Pattern Cutting" book was also an excellent reference. These are all great books to have in your sewing library.

I've been asked by different people in the past if I'd make them an outfit for a special occasion. At this point I don't feel confident enough to take up a request like that, and I normally don't have that kind of time to put into such a project. There are so many wonderful patterns out there and I love having them in my "collection" - but to be able to draft your own pattern feels like a great accomplishment. However - it is so much more time consumimg, and when reality sets in, it's easier to just take a commercial pattern and work with it. Which is what I've been doing. So I'm going to re-visit my notebooks, work on and improve the skills I've learned. In between making garments with my bought patterns, I'll work on drafting my own patterns too. When there is no time line for a garment it's such a pleasure working on it, and everything seems to go along just fine. That's just how I'll approach pattern drafting :)

Teal Silk Doupioni Top - Vogue 8391

I made View A because I just love the neckline style.

The colour is close but I just cannot get it right with my camera.It looks more vibrant like this picture.

Silk Baron

My inspiration for this top was Kathryn's top.

View A - is sleevless and I wanted 3/4 length sleeves - View C.

So I made the appropriate changes to the front/back pattern pieces to accomodate the sleeves.

As previously reported on Stitchers Guild I knew there was going to be issues with the fit of the armhole. I made my muslin with no alterations, other than the changes for the sleeves, as I wanted to see exactly how it would fit. Sure enough , it was quite tight. However the rest of the top fit just fine.

This is a very fitted top and the armhole is high.This style has practically no "ease" at the armhole, and it was definetly pulling -enough to say it was uncomfortable. I made adjustments on my muslin, till the fit was right. It took allot of fiddling -- it's still a fitted top, but it doesn't feel snug under the arms anymore.

I then transferred these adjustments to my pattern pieces.

The adjustments were:

4 added to the armhole on the front and back pattern pieces

4lowered the armhole depth and

4 adjusted the sleeve cap.

I made another muslin, just to be sure and the fit felt perfect.

I was really happy that my adjustments ended up being quite minor and not too difficult. The fabric is a very vibrant teal colour and I could not find serger thread to match "perfectly",

so I finished the seams by folding each seam allowance toward the seam, refolding it to one side and machine blanket stitching.

I embroidered a design on the front - this fabric embroiders really well.

I only lined the front pieces that I embroidered. I pondered doing it this way for quite some time. The fabric is fairly light but it feels nice as is. I knew I'd wear it with a camisole too, so I really didn't want to line the whole top.

To make the lining I simply made a lining pattern from the origianl front pattern piece, removing the facing and adding a 5/8" seam allowance. I used silk charmeuse for the lining.

When I attached the facing/lining I also sewed in clear elastic in the front neckline.

The only thing that holds this top closed are the ties, and that is really not enough to feel secure. I added snap fasteners along the front panel. I don't know how you could wear this top without doing this :)

I down sized the ties - length and width - and I tie them in the back.

The overall construction of this top was very easy. The silk doupioni was great to work with.

I believe I can call this a TNT pattern :)

All Work....and no Play

I'm back to work and just too tired to sew much....But I have managed to do some work on a top...Vogue 8391. I hope to have it done this week end. Will post when complete.

It's a Blustery last day of 2007

Images - Moments in Time

Bill and Duncan shovelling the back deck......while Bradley supervised :) - till Duncan accidently shovelled snow on him - then he came running over to me - he didn't like that at all :)

This was just at the beginning of the snow fall, they had to go out 2 more times during the day.

Vogue 8151 Top

Vogue 8151 Top Originally uploaded by Ann's Fashion Studio

Another Vogue 8151. As you can see, I really like this pattern. I used a very very light print knit and lined it with a brown knit. I left the sleeves unlined. I used Sarah Veblen's method, my favorite, for the neck band and it turned out great.

A very comfortable top.

Quick Projects

Small projects completed. Bill's PJ bottoms were fun to make. It is a very easy pattern, Mcall's 3019, but it's the Fabric Print that I love, cute little penguins snowboarding and skiing :)

The Wine Bottle Gift Bag is also a fun and quick project.

Merry Christmas

I'd like to wish you all a very Merry Christmas.

Picture of Bradley - taken by Dale *( Dale's Happy Tails - Pet Grooming)

It's starting to feel allot like Christmas........

Images - Moments in Time

{- Making a path to Bill's "Barn" in Blackland's New Brunswick. The picture on the left was taken in 2005.

The one on the right was taken just this month.

Blacklands is where my husband's parents live and this beautiful winter scene is part of our /their property there.

Harmon & Irene's Throw - Label

Harmon Throw - Label Originally uploaded by Ann's Fashion Studio

These are the labels I made. The Throws were bought. I customized the designs. The designs were machine embroidered on the same type of Fabric as the throws.

I then sewed the labels to the wrong side of the Throw.

I was able to match the Throw's fabric. Both are a very soft chenille type fabric and it is quite heavy, so these Throws will be nice and cozy :)

I also thought the fabric would be great for a Jacket :)

Crochet - Simple Dish Cloth - First project

Crochet - Dish Cloth - First project Originally uploaded by Ann's Fashion Studio

Today was the day for making up Christmas gifts... embroidering actually......I will post the pictures after Christmas,

once my in laws have received their gifts :) I am the type that has to sit in front of the machine and watch it while the embroidery is stitching out. I have to do this just in case something goes wrong.... So, what do you do while you are sitting there???....why teach yourself to Crochet of course! I bought this yarn and Crochet hook at least 2 years ago. I had great intentions of teaching myself to crochet. All I wanted was to learn so I could make these dish cloths. Well two years later-here I am. It did take me a few trys at starting this cloth before it finally started making sense. It was a very slow process and this is as far as I got, but I am very pleased with the results. My rows are not as straight as they should be, and I know my tension is off, but still not too bad for a first project. (Actually, I'm not even sure if I'm doing it right. To me it really doesn't look like the picture in the book. An experienced "eye" will see .....) The hardest thing I found was trying to keep the yarn from slipping out of my hand.......I had to keep positioning it on my finger......I guess that will come with practice. The book I bought has different syles of wash cloths ,so once I get real comfortable with this simple pattern I will try a harder one. So today was a very productive day. I finished the embroideries, learned to crochet - very basic stitches- and washed and groomed Bradley (my dog).

Too Busy to Sew

I've been too busy with .......work..... Christmas baking/shopping......chores..... to sew. But I have some time to browse blogs.... It just seems that when I finally have a minute to myself I just want to sit, and not start or finish anything. I really enjoy reading and seeing other peoples projects, maybe tooooooooo much :) I'm sure all these woman who sew up such nice garments have jobs, kids, every day chores...... I'm not sure how they can accomplish every day "stuff" and have time to sew. I'm impressed :)

Christmas - Count Down

December is here .......

Santa has 21 shopping days left

Carribean Blue-tiful --- Doupioni Fabric

I received my fabric yesterday.It is such a beautiful vibrant teal colour. My camera is not showing the fabric's true colour. The colour is closer to the picture on the Silk Baron's site. I am so very pleased ....with the fabric.....and the colour.

No time to Sew :(

I have had no time to sew this week.....(I'm on duty )... I check in Artisan's Square and that is pretty much all the time I have . .............I'll just have to sew more next week........... I haven't received my Silk Doupioni fabric that I ordered from the SilkBaron, to make this shirt, Vogue 8391. Kathryn, one of the ladies from Artisan's Square, made this shirt and it is beautiful. I've been looking for quite some time now for Silk Doupioni, but could never find the colour. I must say Kathryn's shirt was just the "inspiration" I needed, and she pointed out the Silk Baron. You can definetly find a colour here as it appears they make Doupioni in every colour...... carribean blue was the colour for me. .

Yet another - Vogue 8151 Top

Vogue 8151 Top Originally uploaded by Ann's Fashion Studio

This top fits really nice. And the neckband turned out "perfect".

I used the Sarah Veblen method and it worked like a charm. I'm now a big fan of this method.

The material is a knit from Timmel Fabrics. It is very comfortable.

Burda WOF 114 A Curvy neckline

Burda WOF 114 A Curvy neckline Originally uploaded by Ann's Fashion Studio

Here is a picture of that neckline on me. It is not an OVERLY large curvy... but enough to notice and not be just right. The left side (hand up to it) is the one that pulls away from the neck. All this fuss.....It is after all just a T-Shirt :)

Found the Threads - Video Tip / Sarah Veblen, "A Neckline Binding for Knits" and "A turtleneck Finish for Knits" I will try that method next time.

Note** I am not very good at these self portraits, this was take 30 ......or so..... but the best one of the bunch with some cropping :) :}

Burda WOF 10/06 Top #114

Burda WOF 10/06 Top #114 Originally uploaded by Ann's Fashion Studio

First - "Burda"- top done. The fit is good but the neckline went "curvy". I will make it again to see if it was something I did? I staystitched the neckline and I was very careful not to stretch it as I sewed. I'll see what happens when I make it again. Made muslin from "inexpensive" Stretch Knit.

Bradley's T-Shirt

Bradley T-Shirt Kwik Sew 2879 Nov 11 2007 Originally uploaded by Ann's Fashion Studio

Images - Moments in Time

Bradley's new T-shirt. Just like mine! Well almost :)

I really stretched this fabric. I made a dress, a top and now a T-shirt for Bradley. He looks so handsome :)

Kwik Sew 2879

Nov 11 2007

Vogue 8151 Top

Vogue 8151 Top Nov 10/07 Originally uploaded by Ann's Fashion Studio

Vogue 8151 Top, view B.(Sandra Betzina.) This is the first time I've made this pattern. The fit is great. I am very happy with it. The only thing I would change next time is lengthen the sleeves by 1". The neckline is ever so slightly curvy :( however, I do have a Wearable Muslin :)

I made View B but I used the long sleeve pattern piece for View A.

I made this top with left-over Fabric from Vogue 7055 dress ,which is also a Sandra Betzina pattern.

Nov 10/07

Burda WOF

..........From this...........

.....to this......... ...................................don't forget those Seam Allowances..............