Friday, 11 January 2008

Teal Silk Doupioni Top - Vogue 8391

I made View A because I just love the neckline style.
The colour is close but I just cannot get it right with my camera.It looks more vibrant like this picture.
My inspiration for this top was Kathryn's top.
View A - is sleevless and I wanted 3/4 length sleeves - View C.
So I made the appropriate changes to the front/back pattern pieces to accomodate the sleeves.
As previously reported on Stitchers Guild I knew there was going to be issues with the fit of the armhole. I made my muslin with no alterations, other than the changes for the sleeves, as I wanted to see exactly how it would fit. Sure enough , it was quite tight. However the rest of the top fit just fine.
This is a very fitted top and the armhole is high.This style has practically no "ease" at the armhole, and it was definetly pulling -enough to say it was uncomfortable. I made adjustments on my muslin, till the fit was right. It took allot of fiddling -- it's still a fitted top, but it doesn't feel snug under the arms anymore.
I then transferred these adjustments to my pattern pieces.
The adjustments were:
4 added to the armhole on the front and back pattern pieces
4lowered the armhole depth and
4 adjusted the sleeve cap.
I made another muslin, just to be sure and the fit felt perfect.
I was really happy that my adjustments ended up being quite minor and not too difficult. The fabric is a very vibrant teal colour and I could not find serger thread to match "perfectly",
so I finished the seams by folding each seam allowance toward the seam, refolding it to one side and machine blanket stitching.
I embroidered a design on the front - this fabric embroiders really well.
I only lined the front pieces that I embroidered. I pondered doing it this way for quite some time. The fabric is fairly light but it feels nice as is. I knew I'd wear it with a camisole too, so I really didn't want to line the whole top.
To make the lining I simply made a lining pattern from the origianl front pattern piece, removing the facing and adding a 5/8" seam allowance. I used silk charmeuse for the lining.
When I attached the facing/lining I also sewed in clear elastic in the front neckline.
The only thing that holds this top closed are the ties, and that is really not enough to feel secure. I added snap fasteners along the front panel. I don't know how you could wear this top without doing this :)

I down sized the ties - length and width - and I tie them in the back.

The overall construction of this top was very easy. The silk doupioni was great to work with.

I believe I can call this a TNT pattern :)


Ariane said...

The top looks great. I do have one question for you though. How did you pre-treat your dupioni? I will be making a bridesmaid dress out of silk dupioni as well and I am have issues on how I should pretreat the fabric, any help is appreciated. Thank you.

Vicki said...

Ann, it is beautiful!! Love the embroidery - just the right amount.

LauraLo said...

Wow this is a beautiful top! The colour and the embroidery are gorgeous too

Els said...

Beautiful blouse.

Isabelle said...

Ann, your blouse is exquisite. I love all the alterations and extra details you added. What an inspiration. Kudos!

Liana said...

So pretty! You must feel like a queen when you wear this.

Audrey said...

The blouse is beautiful and I am sure that color looks great on you. I want to run out and buy the pattern. Silk dupioni is one of my favorite fabrics for tops.

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

This is just so beautiful! So worth all of your time and effort!

a little sewing on the side said...

Ann, your blouse is beautiful and I feel inspired to make one, too!

Cennetta said...

Ann, Your blouse is beautiful.

Linda said...

Your top is gorgeous! I have been a little busy lately, but had to chime in and tell you that.

Sheila said...

Totally stunning blouse and thanks for sharing alteration info.

paco peralta said...

Ann .- We thank you for link to your blog. Congratulations on your work and greetings from Barcelona (Spain). A big hug, Paco